Odwira

We spent some time in Akropong this past week. It was lovely. Enjoy some entries from the past few days. :)

Sept. 11

I only had to go to one class today because we’re heading to Akropong for the rest of the week. Unfortunately that one class happened to be political science. Akropong is my favorite place. We’re visiting this week because a local festival is going on—the Odwira festival.

Akrofi Christaller

We’re staying at the Seminary again. It’s called Akrofi Christaller Institute. When we arrived, we got to settle into our rooms. The beds are super comfortable and the water always works. Everything works—the toilet, the sink, and the shower. And that’s not all! We also eat really well here. Tonight we had spaghetti.

Here’s a history lesson for you: The Odwira festival began a really long time ago. A group of people called the Ashantis had a deity called Odosu that they brought to war with them. When they attacked the kingdom of Akuapem (this includes Akropong), the Ashantis lost and the people of Akuapem stole Odosu. Now, in order for the deity to be of use to the people, they have to do special things for it. The Odwira festival celebrates Oduosu.

The Odwira festival also is a time of cleansing and a time to awaken the ancestors to prepare for the New Year. The people of Akuapem have a 9-month calendar and Odwira marks the end of the year. Tomorrow is essentially New Years Eve!

Six weeks prior to the festival, the ancestors are granted a time of rest. During that time, there is a curfew in the town along with a ban on noise making, dying (that’s right…you are not allowed to die during the 6 week time period leading up to the festival. If you do, you can’t be buried until the 6 weeks are up), as well as a ban on eating new yams. After the 6 weeks are up, the ancestors are awakened, noise can be made, you can die, and you can eat new yams.

Tonight we witnessed the bringing in of the ancestors and the Odwira into the palace. Obviously, you can’t see the ancestors. Ancestors are people that have passed away. But not anyone can be an ancestor. You had to have lived a good life in order to become one. Once you are an ancestor, you act as a mediator between your people and God.

At this ceremony, there is a lot of drumming and dancing. The king is also brought in to sit on his throne under an umbrella. It’s really fascinating stuff.

Sept. 12

I slept like a champion last night. It was wonderful. We also ate a really yummy breakfast of porridge, hot chocolate, toast, and fruit.

Today is the day before New Years here. Traditionally, it’s a day of mourning those that have passed away during the year. Mourning is a lot different here than at home. We walked around visiting people today and they are either sitting around in a circle talking, or there is drumming and dancing. Everyone wears red and black when they are mourning. When we would walk into a new place, we would have to greet every person in the room by shaking their hands. You also must do this counter-clockwise. Another thing to remember is that you may not cross your legs in the presence of an elder because it’s considered disrespectful.

At one place, they offered us some Schnapps to drink as a gesture of hospitality. I learned that you can either drink some, or you can pour it on the ground. By pouring it on the ground, you are offering the drink to the ancestors, which is respectful.

This evening, we went out to get some FanChoco and popcorn. While we’re here, we’ve been sharing our personal testimonies with each other—one person shares each night. We usually do it on Sunday evenings after our group Bible study, but in order to fit everyone in, we’re doing them while we’re here as well. It’s been really awesome. When you’re in a group like this, you spend a lot of time together. It’s good to know where each person is coming from so you can learn to love him or her better.

Sept. 13

Possessed Carrier in the street

Happy New Year! Today is a day of feasting. It is also the day that the ancestors are ceremoniously fed. This afternoon we went to watch the feeding of the ancestors. Talk about interesting. A person from each important house (usually a female) is chosen to take the food to the sacred feeding area. It’s a big deal. They put white powder all over their bodies and parade through the streets. It is believed that when the procession happens, that the ancestors possess the carriers. So, other officials lead these carriers down the street because they can’t really walk on their own. They’re stumbling and running into things—it really looks like they’ve had a few too many sips of the Schnapps. But, who am I to say? I’m an outsider that was just observing. Honestly, I don’t fully understand the culture; so I cant really pose any judgment. Something could be happening that I just can’t see through my Western lens.

This evening, there was a dance party in the streets so we joined in for a while. It was a lot of fun. There are about 5 songs that they play non-stop here in Ghana. The crowd favorite is called Chuck my Money. There is also a dance called the Azonto that everyone knows. Several people have tried to teach me, including the kids at Adenkrebi School. Let’s just say I’m still learning.

After dancing, we played a game together as a group and then I showered (!) and went to bed.

Sept. 14

There was a huge gathering at the city center today. First, there was a parade of all the local chiefs. They were all dressed in colorful fabrics and even carried through the streets. At the end of the parade, the Chiefs were taken to the city center to sit and wait for the paramount chief to arrive. Everyone in town comes out to watch this. I didn’t have a very good seat, so I don’t know everything that happened. I was also surrounded by school children that were climbing all over me to see what was going on. Luckily one of the girls kept me updated. There were street performers, some speeches in Twi that I couldn’t understand, and the President of Ghana even showed up and talked for a bit. The entire event lasted about 5 hours.

Also, we had actual ice cream for desert after dinner. Oh my gosh. I could’ve cried I was so excited.

Sept. 15

We went for a hike at a place called Krobo today. We stopped at a bead-making place on the way there. It was pretty cool to learn the bead making process and also visit the gift shop. :)

On the way to the mountain, we were told, “it’s not a very steep climb”. Well, I think I could’ve used some rope and a pickaxe. (I’m exaggerating a bit, but really…it was super steep) It was a 3-hour climb through the bush to get to the top. We climbed through tall grass, over more than a few large rocks, and then through some jungle. I felt like an explorer. It was really cool once we got to the top. The view was incredible. The way down was crazier than the way up. I was on my butt for about 75% of the way because it was easier to slide/I fell down a lot. The group of 3 girls I was with on the way down also got lost for a bit. We figured it out, but I was a little concerned for a minute. By the time we were done I was covered in dirt, sweat, small cuts, bruises, and rashes. Kristi sprained her ankle and Anna cut her finger so bad she needed stitches. We looked pretty rough, but we also had a really good time in spite of the injuries.

Sept. 16

Post-Hike

I woke up with a swollen eyelid. Awesome. I think it’s from getting hit in the face with several plants while hiking yesterday. I’m going to see if my allergy meds will make the swelling go down.

Today I am thankful for technology. I was able to Skype my parents today for about 2 hours. It was really good to talk to them I was also able to message a bunch of my friends back home. It hard to keep in touch sometimes when I have limited access to the Internet, so today was great.

I also did quite a bit of homework. I wasn’t very productive when we were in Akropong, so I needed the day to catch up.

The first group of 6 left for their home stays today as well. My roommate is one of those people, so I am alone in my room this week. I head to my home stay next week!

Missing home today. Thank you for your prayers and encouragement. I really appreciate it.